Such a rumor (high MP) came, if I'm not mistaken, right after the launch of the EOS R...Presuming that the R5 is still the descendant of the 5D, it is way past time for Canon to move past the 45MP sensor limit. The old 5DsR had more resolution years ago, and the competitors have been at 60MP for some time and will soon go higher.
At a minimum, let’s at least see a 80MP “R5sR” variant.
It's not a rumor, only a question about forum member's wishes.Le R5 MARK III ???? , déjà se serait bien que Canon nous sorte la mise a jour du firmware du R5 MARK II avant de parler du 3.....
Yeah, this. I can shoot a wedding on two batteries on my mk2 - that can be 5,000 images, easy. And the active cooling in it is pretty good.The first three words say it: "Way too soon". IMO the R5 Mk2 is quite perfect in terms of specifications. I could see some improvements, but I believe that a faster readout might cause a loss in low ISO dynamic range. Might be a case were there is no free lunch. We shall see, but I am in no rush to upgrade; really like the R5 Mk2 as a travel camera.
All E.Shutter have lower DR that E-1st/ mechanical shutter, it applies to all cameras. The only way to increase DR is maybe reduce the readout speed, which that defeats the purpose furthermore.2. The DR is reduced when using the electronic shutter. The only way to get the 'full" DR is to use electronic first curtain, which defeats the entire purpose of having the electronic shutter in the first place.
Those first two comments are plain nonsense. They don't stand up to reviews from people who do proper analysis and present evidence. For example,1. Fix the sensor noise. The R5M2 sensor is FAR too noisy for a modern camera, it's barely on par with cameras from 4-5 years ago or even older.
2. The DR is reduced when using the electronic shutter. The only way to get the 'full" DR is to use electronic first curtain, which defeats the entire purpose of having the electronic shutter in the first place.
3. The rear LCD is nothing to brag about. Needs updated to a higher resolution brighter one.
4. The metering could be improved. The way it is now certain colors tend to overexpose. Some wildlife subjects need a lot of finessing to get the exposure correct.
5. The Auto ISO needs to have the range limiter improved to add ALL ISO values.
6. The AF isn't bad but could probably stand some tweaking.
I got it!1. Fix the sensor noise. The R5M2 sensor is FAR too noisy for a modern camera, it's barely on par with cameras from 4-5 years ago or even older.
2. The DR is reduced when using the electronic shutter. The only way to get the 'full" DR is to use electronic first curtain, which defeats the entire purpose of having the electronic shutter in the first place.
3. The rear LCD is nothing to brag about. Needs updated to a higher resolution brighter one.
4. The metering could be improved. The way it is now certain colors tend to overexpose. Some wildlife subjects need a lot of finessing to get the exposure correct.
5. The Auto ISO needs to have the range limiter improved to add ALL ISO values.
6. The AF isn't bad but could probably stand some tweaking.
My hotshoe cover doesn't need pliers. I've already lost number 2.Can I throw in...
- If they're not going to release a high-megapixel body, double the resolution to let me go crop-crazy
- CFexpress v4 support to double throughput
- Quadrupled buffer to go along with above
- A hotshoe cover that can be taken off without pliers
- Internal GPS option we can turn on/off
- Diopter less prone to unintentional movement
- Multi-exposure averaging (for sharpness)
- Option to change relevant settings when you get those dialog boxes indicating why you can't change a particular setting when a different setting is conflicting with it. Right now, you need to go on a menu treasure hunt to find it.
- Feedback for which reason a pupil-control AF point calibration fails so it can be fixed
- Explicit cases where you can register calibrations for landscape/vertical/dark/bright sun/etc..., allowing system to choose from most relevant data set
I also only shoot raw. That was a reference to another comment.For star trail shots…. If I set my shutter exposure to 30 seconds and the intervalometer to 30 seconds, you will find there are times that you might have some / many of the 30 second increments were skipped because of processing time (I tried turning off noise reduction, etc. but it didn’t work. My conclusion is that the shutter time isn’t 100% exact. I tried 31 second interval, it helped, but didn’t fix it.). I use an external shutter release that I can lock down, this eliminates the gaps. I prefer raw over heif
Canon haven't been prompt to move to "new" standards. They could have avoided a lot of the "overheating" issues in the R5 if they used v2.1 standard and have external recording avoiding the need to use the CFe card slot heaters.If we’re talking about CFExpress then they should move up to the new CFExpress 4 standard. Twice as fast as CFExpress 2, which is in the R5 / R5 II, for the same card type. Ie CFExpress 4 Type B is twice the speed of CFExpress 2 Type B.
This would be an optional feature but for those who use back button focus being able to take a single shot using the half press and then full press to fire a burst would be very helpful and yes if I could afford it I'd buy an R1 for similar functionality but this is just something that could be implemented with a firmware change on any cameraHow would that work? Would a half press actually take pictures just like a full press? How could you pre-focus? Would back-button AF then be a requirement? Seems like an impractical solution.
OTOH, Canon has already implemented a reasonable approach with the R1. The Smart Controller (AF-ON) has half- and full-press. I have mine configured so a half-press focuses and uses whatever frame rate my current mode is set to, and full press focuses and shoots at 40 fps.
You should have full time manual focus override already? Just disable continuous AF if that's what's happeningI don't know about anybody else, but I would like to have the option to set one of the back buttons to manual focus momentarily. I do wildlife photography and sometimes the autofocus likes to lock on a nearby branch, leaf, or whatever, but not the critter I want to capture. Time is of the essences when shooting wildlife. Using the switch on the lens, movement of the camera lens costs valuable time. With the recent update to the R5mkII, it has only made focusing worse. A quick access to manual focus would help me make an adjustment to the focus needed to get the sharp picture.
FTM override working or not depends on the lens, not all of them support it. It works on my 100-500L, but not on the RF100L macroYou should have full time manual focus override already? Just disable continuous AF if that's what's happening
Just look at page 567 of the manual of the R5mkII !You should have full time manual focus override already?
You must have the luxury of only shooting in well lit stadiums at night. Where I live, out of the dozens of sporting fields around, only one (a full blown stadium with television grade lighting) lets you shoot at ISO6,400. By far almost every night game I shoot is at ISO25,600 and that's to get 1/800 or 1/1,000s shutter from a f2.8 lens. I'm thankful that my EOS R6 Mark II has very good low light performance. All this hype about stacked sensors has no bearing on lowlight noise performance. For me, low light high ISO performance is the most critical benchmark if I'm buying a new camera body. Even games that start late afternoon and run though until dusk usually hit ISO20,000. You ask "How often are you up past 6400 to begin with?", for me the answer is "all the freakin' time".ISO is only marginally worse when you're above 6400, 12800 seems to be where the detail last holds up. How often are you up past 6400 to begin with? This is really a feeble argument. Invest in faster glass maybe? All of a sudden everyone is afraid of noise. I have no problem with noise on these cameras, they are far better than anything from the DSLR era. People just complain about everything today.